But It’s a Wet Heat

dryheat-624x444There is an unspoken code of machismo in conservation.  It’s not like anyone is keeping score, however, each is quick to discount any discomfort lest to lose esteem from others on the conservation team.When I lived in the high dessert lands of the Southwest, for example, even though the temperature really could boil an egg on the street, one just said, “But it’s a dry heat.”  In so doing one communicated, “No problem for me. Why did you bring up the subject?  Are you wimping out?”

Climbing macaw nest tree in the heat - no problem for Qi Wong.

Climbing macaw nest tree in the heat – no problem for Qi Wong.

Climbing nest tree in the heat - no problem for Joshua Daniel

Climbing nest tree in the heat – no problem for Joshua Daniel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here in the Maya Selva (broadleaf forest shared between Mexico, Belize, Guatemala) it gets hot, but it’s a wet heat.  No problem for me, but it is for our equipment and materials.  With temperatures easily reaching 100 plus and the humidity percentage close to the same number, our gear gives up long before we do.

Climber at nest site - no problema for Eleazar González (notice adult parent watching on to right of climber)

Climber at nest site – no problema for Eleazar González (notice adult parent watching on to right of climber)

Here’s how so based on one 24 hour period last week in the Laguna del Tigre National Park in northern Guatemala.  This year I am here with my conservation team members sampling wild macaw chicks to test them (the chicks, not my human team members) for disease and to get baseline data.  We are all part of a group that centers on the Wildlife Conservation Society’s effort to protect the Maya Biosphere Reserve.  Funding and expertise also comes from the American Museum of Natural History, Disney Worldwide Conservation Fund, and Lafeber Conservation and Wildlife.

Exam and lab table under the nest tree. We are ready, but is the equipment?

Exam and lab table under the nest tree. We are ready, but is the equipment?

Sure our shirts are already damp while we sip coffee at 5 a.m., and wet by the time we get to the base of the first nest tree.  But it’s no problem for us.  Handling the chick and taking blood goes well enough, but then the non living flesh begins to flake out.   We make slides out of the blood and it is important that they dry right away so the cells don’t rupture, and so that they will lake take up the stain well. The slides refuse to dry. Quickly I pass them out and folks start blowing on the slides. This induces borderline hyperventilation in case anyone was thinking they were too comfortable in the heat and humidity.

Spinning down blood using truck's battery

Spinning down blood using truck’s battery

Wild scarlet macaw chick with full crop

Wild scarlet macaw chick with full crop

 

We then move on to the next trees and as the day progresses the humidity drops and the slides dry more quickly.  During the last nest exam, however, the chick brings plenty of nest dust down with her and when she moves, dust and dirt gets on the slides, making preparation difficult.

While some of us pack up under the nest tree, others go ahead to get to the truck as fast as possible. It’s important to quickly centrifuge the blood so you can separate the plasma from the red blood cells.  So this has to happen truck side in the middle of the forest, drawing on the truck’s battery for energy.   On the walk back we discover that even our knee caps sweat in this weather.  No problem for us, but it might be for the blood samples.  So we give thanks to Kari Schmidt and others on our advance team, for they are finishing up as we arrive.

Ice HCT JoynerWe then go to the lab, and I did mention that there were no fans or air conditioning in the field lab, didn’t I?  It is about the hottest time of the day, but we can’t break for lunch because samples need to be run as soon as possible.  No problem for us.  We keep cranking, but our equipment fails. First the clay that stoppers the hematocrit tubes gets too warm and doesn’t seal the tubes. The blood leaks out and we can’t assess whether the birds have anemia or not. In the middle of this, our Abaxis biochemistry analyzer, the Vetscan Classic, decides it’s just too hot to keep running, and stops.  I guess we can’t blame the machine, after all the manual suggests not to run it with ambient temperatures over 90. Now we know why.

Grateful for the Abaix Vetscan Biochemistry Analyzer (are the wet faces from tears, sweat, or both?)

Grateful for the donated AbaxisVetscan biochemistry analyzer – thank you Abaxis! (notice the wet faces – whether tears or sweat, no problem for us!)

As long as the equipment peters out first we don’t mind stopping.   We take a long lunch break, for the chicks’ and equipment’s sake, not ours.  We don’t want to be handling the more sensitive chicks when the sun reaches its punishment zenith.  We climb a nest tree in the later afternoon and then return gladly to work in the stifling lab after dark.

Trying to read refractometer with flashlight - you've got to be kidding!

Trying to read refractometer with flashlight – you’ve got to be kidding!

No problem for us, but our refractometer acts up. This is a piece of equipment that passes light through blood plasma so we can judge Total Solids. But there isn’t enough light to read the refractometer well, so we have to use a flash light.  Using flash lights are notorious for losing macho points, but not in this case – it’s the equipment’s fault (the stupid clay keeps leaking even in the night!).  .

There is nothing more we can do but wait until it is cooler in the morning.  Otherwise I’m sure we could have worked all night. Instead we let the equipment rest as we try to do so ourselves, though the heat and humidity keep one wakeful, as do the Howler monkeys bellowing throughout the night.  No problem for us. Refreshed or not, we are ready to go again in the morning.

Antonio Xol and a giant walking stick looks on as we pack up the Vetscan analyzer

Antonio Xol and a giant walking stick looks on as we pack up the Vetscan analyzer

So there we are running laboratory tests at 5:30 a.m. and do manage to tame the heat and humidity issues of our equipment.  With no more tests to run, it’s time to pack up.  A large walking stick (insect) inspects our process as we decide how to arrange it all.Walking Stick  The more sensitive equipment, such as the VetScan and the microscopes, cannot go in the back of the truck. So we look for volunteers who will ride inside the relatively cooler and more comfortable cab of the truck.  Usually riding in the hot direct sun in the rambunctious truck bed is rather a mark of pride. However, two agree to hold microscopes in their laps for the 4 hour bumpy ride out, and I get the VetScan between my legs.

Packed in tight with equipment all around us (Raiza Barahona, LoraKim Joyner and Manuel Lepe)

Packed in tight with equipment all around us (Raiza Barahona, LoraKim Joyner and Manuel Lepe)

The bronco like action of the truck along the pitted roads does make it seem like I am riding a horse, so I just hold tight with my thigh muscles and it doesn’t seem so bad.  The next day though I discover that I indeed did develop saddle sores in the typical places.  Others received bruises where doors and other protruding objects rudely slammed into them while the driver navigated the deeper ruts. No problem for us, and thankfully, not for the equipment either which made it back in one piece to Flores, our home base.

ARCAS veterinarians, Drs. Fernando Martinez and Alejandro Morales, with me and an intern (showing off our "Fly Free Scarlet Macaw" wrist bands which announce we all are one conservation team!)

ARCAS veterinarians, Drs. Fernando Martinez and Alejandro Morales, with me and intern Rudy Lopez (showing off our “Fly Free Scarlet Macaw” wrist bands which announce we all are one conservation team!)

Temporary lab in Flores outside hotel (where ever you go, so goes the lab!)

Temporary lab in Flores outside hotel room (where ever you go, so goes the lab!)

 

 

Once back in Flores we visit ARCAS where they graciously allow us to sample a few of their birds so we can work out the kinks in our equipment.  We run various trials using different clay at different temperatures and finally come to a place where we have confidence that the slides, tubes, centrifuges, microscopes, stains, and machines on our next trip to the field will man up and do their job.

After all, it’s just a wet heat.

When things go well we are very happy (Drs. Kari Schmidtt and Manuel Lepe)

When things go well we are very happy, and when they don’t, we’re macho (Dr. Kari Schmidt doing the “happy dance” while Dr. Manuel Lepe looks on)

 

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Scarlet Macaws Flying Home in Palenque

Painting by school children welcoming the scarlet macaw to Palenque, Mexico (A grand welcome to a beautiful bird)

Painting by school children welcoming the scarlet macaw to Palenque, Mexico (A grand welcome to a beautiful bird)

tzolkin-the-mayan-calendar-czech-games

 

I like many others am very curious about the Mayan culture, especially so in my case because all of the countries in which I have projects claim Mayan ancestors.  Because of this my spouse and I have been hooked on a board game: Tzolk’in – the Mayan Calender. It has gears that spin like depictions of the Mayan calendar.  As you go through the ages, each turning of the calendar sets into motion gears around an alliance of major Mayan cities, Tikal, Uxmal, Yaxchilan, Chichen Itza, and Palenque.  AJt6aXFThe turning gears then offer one choices in all kinds of actions – building temples and monuments, trading, feeding workers, mining, fishing, clearing the forest, and harvesting maize (corn).  In the city of Palenque, for instance, you can choose to clear the forest before you can plant maize, and if you want to burn the forest to get at more food resources quicker, you “anger the gods” and get levied a fine.

Grandeur of Palenque Ruins Small Joyner

Palenque Ruins

 

Perhaps the Mayans really did feel as if they had angered their gods somehow when city after city of theirs fell due to a complex weave of environmental degradation, over population, hunger, political strife, and war.  It isn’t much of a leap to imagine how when we modern humans similarly harm the environment and each other, we anger the whole of life which results in penalties against our kind and kin.  These are the kinds of connections I make as we play the game, which has its roots in reality.  For its not really a game at all.

palenque tower small Joyner

The Palace Observation Tower at Palenque Ruins

As we learn about the Mayans we are aided in understanding our own lives.  To reap even more benefits, to raise the stakes of the game, and to make it more challenging, relevant, and entertaining, we have begun to make up new rules to the game.

one tourist among many small Joyner

One tourist among many, me.

Life is all about changing rules.  In the last century, people are making up rules as fast as they can to keep pace with changes so they may live as well as they can, for their sake and the sake of others.  No wonder many people from around the world visit Palenque and similar Mayan sites. By trying to understand how cultures rose and then declined in the past, they seek guidelines on how to live in a world where the future seems so uncertain.  For this reason, at least in part, I joined other tourists journeying on the Ruta Maya (Mayan Route) this past week in Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico.

I sought enlightenment not just from visiting the ruins of the past, but also by delighting in the hope of future, namely, the scarlet macaw liberation project at Aluxes Ecopark which resides near the ruins,

Aluxes Entrance

Entrance to Aluxes EcoPark

There I learned much about what guidelines helped not just those of the past who lived in this area, but can help those of the present preserve a healthy future for the many….

  • Formation of alliances
  • Long term dedication
  • Grounding in reality while reaching for the dream

 

Entrance sign at Aluxes welcoming the scarlet macaw home

Entrance sign at Aluxes welcoming the scarlet macaw home

The scarlet macaw liberation project at Aluxes, Flying Home, has been in formation for a long time before their first release of 20 macaws just a few short weeks ago on April 21, 2013.   The ideas to reintroduce macaws into an area where they had become locally extinct began to take form in 2007.  At that time three groups came together: Acajungla, of which Aluxes is a part, Xcaret (an archeological and ecopark) and Universidad Nactional Autonómo de México.

Flying Home project sign listing contributors of the alliance

Flying Home project sign listing contributors of the alliance

Dr. Alejandro Estrada pointing the way

Dr. Alejandro Estrada pointing the way

 

Dr. Alejandro Estrada, the lead scientist, explained to me that it is this strong alliance that made the project possible.  So too the Mayan city Palenque came into its greatest power due to an alliance, theirs with Tikal and Yaxchilan.  Finally Palenque was able to resist the violent power grabs, destruction, and sacking by the neighboring unallied city states.  Alliances to avoid destruction, powerful then and powerful now.

 

Volunteers out for the morning monitoring the recently released flock (and wearing "Scarlet Macaw Fly Free" wrist bands)

Volunteers out for the morning monitoring the recently released flock (and wearing “Scarlet Macaw Fly Free” wrist bands) Alliances typically are supported by a large number of volunteers – thanks to them for being on the conservation team for the Mesoamerican scarlet macaw!

The Palenque-Tikal-Yaxchilan alliance took form during the rule of Pakal the Great who governed for an incredibly long time given the short lifespan and political turmoil of the times:  615 – 683 C.E.  He lived to be 80 years old, a true ancient when humans died much younger than they do today.  The length of his rule I believe contributed to stability, and to the power needed to implement and maintain concrete actions. In the case of the macaws, Acajungla has been in operation for 12 years and XCARET has been dedicated long enough to be able to breed in captivity some 200 scarlet macaws a year.  It is this perseverance in conservation that brings about change and possibility.

Carved lid of the tomb of K'inich Janaab' Pakal in the Temple of the Inscriptions.

Carved lid of the tomb of K’inich Janaab’ Pakal in the Temple of the Inscriptions.

To preserve amongst the challenges also takes an enduring vision.  In the Palenque ruins exists a carving that commemorates the passing of Pacal the Great.  As explained to me by a tour guide, Pakal is depicted as dying, but then being aided by the sacred Ceiba tree as he ascends to the afterworld which is symbolized by the Quetzal. The Ceiba tree’s roots go deep into the underworld and its limbs reach the heavens.  Yes, the scarlet macaw population here has died, as did Pacal.  But it is experiencing a rebirth, because like the Ceiba’s mighty roots, this project has deep grounding, theirs in scientific and social endeavors. At the same time it has a far reaching dream to establish a macaw corridor to join up with and strengthen the struggling and endangered populations of a couple of hundred individuals each in southern Mexico, Guatemala, and Belize.  It is an audacious undertaking, but from my vantage point of only spending scant hours with these great people, it seems not only possible, but probable.  Sure, it is early yet – only two weeks into the first release.  However, they have not lost one bird.  This bodes well for future releases which are scheduled to take place several times a year over the next three years with XCARET donating up to 300 birds for liberation.  Easily in my life time it could be that all we macaw conservationists of the Maya Selva (forest) could be out of a job.  The macaws would have finally come home to stay.

Flight cage for macaws before release

Flight cage for macaws before release

I will be flying home myself in about another week, and I can’t wait to return to play the Mayan Calendar Game with my family.  There will be a new rule added though. Not only in Palenque will you have the option to cut the forest and plant maize, but now also you will be able to release macaws, and earn bonus points accordingly.

We all have options.  The rules to life are changing, and I believe for the better. We can choose to not only destroy and live in ruin, but to rebuild, to preserve, and to compassionately care for all individuals of all species.

Recently liberated scarlet macaw (with radio telemetry collar and temporary identifying marks on beak)

Recently liberated scarlet macaw (with radio telemetry collar and temporary identifying marks on beak)

Grandly welcoming each and all in this way to our shared earth home is not a game.  The stakes are very high.

There are also risks. Engaging with one another and forming alliances over a long period of time is never easy. So maybe I need to add other rules to the game, rules of sacrifice.  Our sacrifice though won’t be of giving up to death our smooth or feathered skinned children, but our own narrow desires and ego concerns born naturally out of fear.

Skull found on the Temple of the Skull, Paleqnue

How then do we let go of fear?  How do we see not ourselves at the center of the world, but the flora and fauna all around us?  Well, I say by playing together for the benefit of all.

If we can do this, I believe that not only will the gods will be well pleased, but so will the children of all species to come.

Temple depicting the tree of creation tree at the center of the world (Temples of the Cross complex in Palenque Ruins)

Temple depicting the tree of creation tree at the center of the world (Temples of the Cross complex in Palenque Ruins)

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The Flight Continues: Scarlet Macaw Conservation in Belize

last-flight-cover233x360Many years ago when I lived in Guatemala I remember feeling a bond with Sharon Matola, the founder and director of the Belize Zoo. I still have never met her, but we were both women from the USA who had through happenstance found ourselves in Central America as defenders of wildlife.  Her story is more well known than mine.  In fact there is a book about her efforts to save the scarlet macaw in Belize, “The Last Flight of the Scarlet Macaw:  One woman’s fight to save the world’s most beautiful bird.”  The book details how though she and others tried to stop it, the controversial Chalillo hydroelectric dam was constructed to block the Macal River in the Chiquibul Forest Reserve, which is inside the Chiquibul National Park.  Subsequently, the flooding that began upon the dam’s completion in 2005 makes up a 9 mile reservoir that dramatically altered habitat where the threatened macaw remained.

High view of Chalillo Reservoir as we drive in

High view of Chalillo Reservoir as we drive in

It is this reservoir where I will spend three days contributing to the current scarlet macaw conservation efforts.  I am joined by Dr. Isabelle Paquet-Durand, Danny Velasquez, and Tony Rath.   Dr. Pasquet is founder and director of the recently formed Belize Wildlife and Referral Clinic and Danny and Tony are on this trip wearing their photography hats. The three of us are hosted by Charles Britt and Roni Martinez.  Roni is leader of a coalition of conservationists and also conservation officer for Blancaneaux Lodge.

Charles Britt

Charles is a staunch supporter of parrot conservation in Belize and has had many adventures seeking to understand them, and protect them.  We first met in 2011 when he came to Guatemala to report on the status of the scarlet macaw in the Chiquibul Forest Reserve. His news then was not good – illegal poaching was rampant which not only led to the removal of chicks from their families, but also the death of adults in some cases and the destruction of nest trees in others from attempts to get the chicks down out of high tree cavities.

Given this back story, I expect to be discouraged, once again, with the status of macaws in Mesoamerica.  However, that is not the case.  Instead what I encounter is energy, hope, perseverance, and possibility.  For example, due to last year’s protection efforts, the poaching rate of the nests along the reservoir dropped from 90% to 30%. Protection is provided by Roni’s team, known amongst themselves as the Scarlet Six, and the Friends of Conservation and Development (FCD). Both teams have boats on the water patrolling when I arrive and join together for the nest climbs when I will offer training in nest and chick health evaluation.

Scarlet Six

Scarlet Six

We camp near the nest tree we will climb the next day.  In fact, the adult pair is calling and preening in the branches over our hammock tent site as the sun gives it up for the moon.

Chiquibul misty morning large

Roni Martinez listening to chick's heart

Roni Martinez listening to chick’s heart

After the sun and full moon once again exchange places, the morning begins with mist and a scramble for coffee.  Once all the team members gather, the chicks are lowered to the ground. The human crowd gathers around to learn what they might as I walk them through the steps evaluating chicks.  Although these chicks are between 1-2 weeks of age and without feathers, I can see in the smiles around that indeed, the book got it right, this is one of the most beautiful and treasured species in the world.  I have to admit that I was doing a fair bit of smiling myself as I have not handled a wild macaw chick for nearly two years. The two chicks are slightly thin and have many mites.  The teams elect to treat the chicks and the nest cavity with insecticide so as to increase the health and chance of fledgling for these birds. Two years ago In Guatemala macaws we found that the chicks with mites were the same ones that were anemic.   So as we are treated by their presence in the world, we treat them as well.isabelle teaching

 

We take a break in the mid part of the day, so the heat won’t impact the chicks or the climbers.  By 3 p.m. we are climbing a second tree. I take a back seat as Isabelle supervises and teachers. Having a chance to look around, I swear even though it’s hot and the woods are offering up their ticks to our skin, people are smiling even more than they did this morning.  These chicks are in better body condition and there are no mites.

 

Boat rideOn our way back from the climb, the birding from the boat is exquisite.  We see a recently fledged great black hawk, tentatively perching on a snag and unwilling to risk a flight to get away from us.  I think we are much like her – babies looking off into the unknown, not knowing what’s coming, and afraid to risk the fight.   Even still, the hawk will take flight, and we will continue to take up the fight.

Great Black Hawk Belize

Back at camp there are many plans for continued chick and nest health evaluations, and more extensive nest protection in the deeper parts of the Chiquibul.  While we chatter, stories arise about the tough years in the past and how difficult the challenges are concerning conservation efforts in Belize.  Many heads nod in agreement when one veteran of the Chiquibul says that team mates are what make all the difference in the world.

Wearing wrist bands in solidarity (bands read "Scarlet Macaw Fly Free" in 3 languages)

Wearing wrist bands in solidarity (bands read “Scarlet Macaw Fly Free” in 3 languages)

With each other, we can continue the fight.

With each other, the birds can continue their flight.

Scarlet macaw nest Belize Joyner

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